This guide compares artificial grass, natural sod, and real grass lawns for Denver yards, and walks you through the choices that matter when selecting a synthetic turf product. If your lawn has died in the intense high-altitude sun, turned to dust on clay soil, or cannot support a dog area without mud and odor, this page will help you understand what artificial grass can and cannot do, what real grass still does well, and how to read a product spec so you know exactly what you are paying for.
We install artificial grass and synthetic turf in Denver and the surrounding areas. We do not install natural sod, irrigation systems, concrete, pavers, or pools. This guide tells you things a sales page would not, because understanding the tradeoffs and the actual product differences is how you make a choice you will not regret.
Turf vs Artificial Grass: Is There a Difference?
The words 'turf' and 'artificial grass' cause real confusion because 'turf' is used two ways in everyday language. In one use, 'turf' means rolls of natural sod (living grass). In another, 'turf' is short for 'synthetic turf', the manufactured product made of plastic fibres, infill, and backing. 'Artificial grass', 'synthetic turf', and 'artificial turf' all name the same synthetic product. When you see these terms used together in a search or a conversation, the question is usually not about vocabulary but about whether synthetic or natural is the right choice for your yard.
Within synthetic turf itself, there are different kinds built for different uses. Landscape artificial grass is designed to look and feel like a lawn, with a softer pile and a natural appearance. Sports turf and putting green turf are engineered for performance, with denser pile, different infill, and a shaped base underneath. The right product depends on what the yard will do: a family lawn, a dog run, a putting green, or a pool surround each have different demands on pile height, density, drainage, and durability. Choosing the right turf for the job is the first step to a result that works.
Artificial Grass vs Real Grass in Denver: An Honest Comparison
In Denver's climate and yards, each choice has real strengths and real limits. A natural lawn in a shaded spot under a cottonwood or maple can thrive with less water and less upkeep than full-sun grass, and if you enjoy lawn care, a living lawn offers something artificial cannot: seasonal color change, the smell of cut grass, and a feel underfoot that changes with the seasons. Real grass also costs less to install and requires no base preparation. But Denver's intense high-altitude sun, low humidity, and expansive clay soil make full-sun lawns difficult to keep alive. Kentucky bluegrass, the standard Denver lawn grass, goes dormant and turns brown in summer heat unless watered heavily, and even then it struggles on clay soil that holds water poorly. If your lawn has died despite watering, or turns to dust every July, artificial grass solves a real problem that real grass cannot.
Artificial grass is low-maintenance, not maintenance-free. It will need occasional rinsing to remove dust and pollen, brushing to restore the pile if it mats down, and infill top-up over time as some material migrates or compacts. In Denver's freeze-thaw winters, ice can form on the backing if water pools; good drainage and proper base preparation prevent this. Dogs will use artificial grass year-round without turning it to mud, and the turf will not be damaged by urine if the backing is permeable and infill is antimicrobial. Artificial grass stays green all year and requires no mowing, no fertilizer, and no watering except an occasional rinse. Upfront cost is higher than sod, but over 10 to 15 years the difference in water use, mowing, and repair narrows considerably. The honest cases where real grass still wins: a shaded lawn under mature trees, a very tight budget, an HOA that requires living grass, or a homeowner who prefers to care for a living lawn.
Turf vs Sod: When Natural Sod Is the Better Answer
Natural sod is living grass grown in a nursery, cut into rolls, and laid on prepared soil. It germinates and roots in place over a few weeks, and it is the fastest way to a green lawn. Sod costs less to install than artificial grass and requires no special base. It is the right choice if your yard has real shade, if your budget is tight, if your HOA requires living grass, or if you enjoy lawn maintenance and want seasonal color. Sod also works well for small repair areas and for homeowners who are willing to water and mow. However, sod faces the same challenges as any Denver lawn: in full sun and on clay soil, it requires heavy watering through the summer to stay alive, and it will go dormant and brown in heat unless you irrigate constantly. Sod also does not handle dog urine well; it will thin and die in heavy-use areas.
We install artificial grass and do not install natural sod. We work with irrigation companies and landscape contractors who do sod work, and we will tell you honestly if sod is the better answer for your yard. If your lawn is in shade, if you have a small budget, or if you enjoy lawn care, sod may be the right choice, and we will not push you toward artificial grass just to make a sale. If your yard is in full sun, if you have dogs, or if water use is a concern, artificial grass solves problems that sod cannot. The decision is yours, and it should be based on your yard, your climate, and what you are willing to do to keep it looking good.
Polyethylene vs Nylon vs Polypropylene Artificial Grass
Artificial grass fibres come in three main families, each with different properties. Polyethylene is soft, bends easily, and has a natural appearance that mimics real grass closely. It is the standard for landscape artificial grass because it feels good underfoot and looks realistic. Polyethylene is not as heat-tolerant as nylon and will soften slightly in extreme heat, but it is durable and holds color well. Nylon is the most resilient and heat-tolerant fibre available. It is stiffer than polyethylene and has a less natural look, but it resists wear, holds its shape through heavy traffic, and tolerates high temperatures better. Nylon is used on putting greens, sports fields, and other high-use areas where durability matters more than a soft feel. Nylon turf is usually more expensive than polyethylene. Polypropylene is the budget fibre, softer than nylon but less durable than polyethylene. It is common in cheap roll products sold at big-box stores and online. Polypropylene will flatten and wear faster, especially in high-traffic areas or in direct sun, and it is not recommended for anything but temporary use or very light traffic.
The fibre you choose depends on what the turf will do. A family lawn in a residential yard will use polyethylene for comfort and appearance. A dog run or a play area that gets heavy use will benefit from nylon's durability, though polyethylene with a dense pile and good backing can work well too. A putting green requires nylon or a specialized putting turf. A pool surround needs heat tolerance and quick drainage, which polyethylene can provide if the backing and infill are right. There is no single 'best' fibre; the use decides. When you get a quote, ask what fibre is in the product and why it is suited to your job. A very cheap roll product is almost certainly polypropylene, and it will disappoint you in a year or two.
Face Weight, Pile Height, Thatch and Backing: Reading a Turf Spec
A good turf spec sheet tells you the product name, the fibre type, the face weight, the pile height, the backing, and the infill. Face weight is measured in ounces per square yard and tells you how much fibre is in the turf. A higher face weight means the turf is denser, with more fibre per square inch. A denser turf will look fuller, hide wear better, and last longer. But face weight alone does not tell you everything; a turf with 50 ounces of soft polyethylene will feel different from 50 ounces of stiff nylon. Pile height is the length of the blades, measured in inches. A short pile (half an inch to three-quarters of an inch) is good for putting greens and pet turf because it resists matting and hides urine stains. A longer pile (one inch to one and a half inches) looks lusher and feels softer underfoot, but it mats down faster in high-traffic areas. The thatch layer is the curly, textured under-layer beneath the visible blades. It props the blades up, hides wear and compaction, and gives the turf depth and realism. A good thatch is thick and springy.
The backing is the layer glued to the bottom of the fibre. Latex backing is common and less expensive. Polyurethane backing is more durable and more water-resistant. Perforated backing has holes that let water drain through; fully permeable backing drains water freely in all directions. For a yard with good drainage, perforated backing is fine. For a yard with poor drainage, a heavy-use area, or a dog run, fully permeable backing is better. Permeability is sometimes stated in gallons per hour per square foot (GPH/SF). Ask for a spec sheet that lists the turf product name, fibre type, face weight in ounces per square yard, pile height, thatch description, backing type, and permeability. If the installer cannot or will not give you these numbers in writing, that is a red flag. You cannot compare quotes fairly without knowing what is in each one.
The Best Artificial Grass for Dogs, Kids, Putting and Pools
The best artificial grass for your yard depends on how the yard will be used. For a dog run or a pet area, choose a turf with a short, dense pile that resists matting and hides urine stains. The backing must be fully permeable or well-perforated so urine drains through instead of pooling. Infill should include antimicrobial material such as zeolite or a coated infill like Envirofill that inhibits odor-causing bacteria. Polyethylene or nylon both work for dogs, but nylon is more durable if the area gets heavy traffic. For children and play areas, softness and heat management matter. The turf should have a thicker pile for comfort, and the infill should include cooling material such as engineered wood fiber or a specialized cooling infill. If there is playground equipment, the base and infill must be rated to the fall height of the equipment; ask for ASTM F1292 testing data. For a putting green, use a dedicated putting turf, not landscape grass. Putting turf has a very short pile, a firm backing, and a shaped base underneath that is rolled and crowned to control ball roll. For a pool surround, choose a turf that drains quickly and tolerates heat. The backing should be fully permeable, and the infill should not hold water. Polyethylene with a medium pile works well around pools because it stays cooler than nylon and feels better on wet feet.
Products like SYNLawn, TigerTurf, AstroTurf, and Envirofill are examples of materials that exist and can be sourced for the right job. No single brand is 'the best' for all uses. A good turf installer will name the specific product, the fibre, the face weight, and the infill, and will explain why that choice suits your yard and your use. If an installer pushes a single brand for everything, or will not name the product and specs in writing, that is a sign they are not prioritizing your needs.
How to Choose, and What to Get in Writing
When you are ready to choose an installer and a product, get everything in writing. Ask for the turf product name, the fibre type, the face weight in ounces per square yard, and the pile height. Ask what infill will be used and how many pounds per square foot. Ask how deep the base will be, what material it is made from, and how it will be compacted. Ask whether a weed barrier will be installed and how seams will be joined. Ask for a certificate of insurance showing general liability and workers' compensation coverage. Take photos of the finished work and ask for references you can call. Most importantly, compare quotes on the same spec, not on price alone. Two quotes at different prices may be for completely different products, and the cheaper one may not last half as long.
We offer a free on-site measurement and estimate so you know exactly what the job will cost and what you are getting. Our pricing page explains how we measure and what affects cost. When you are ready to talk through your yard and your options, call us at (720) 734-4925 or request a free estimate. We are fully insured and we will tell you honestly whether artificial grass is the right answer for your yard, or whether real grass, sod, or a different solution makes more sense.