Artificial grass performs only as well as what lies beneath it. This guide covers the infill, base preparation, drainage and finishing details that separate a properly installed turf system from one that will fail within a few years. If you are planning a residential installation, a pet turf area, a patio or balcony, or any other project in Denver and the surrounding areas, understanding these fundamentals will help you ask the right questions and verify that the work is done correctly.
Denver's high-altitude climate, expansive clay soil and intense sun create specific challenges. Winter freeze-thaw cycles, summer hail and afternoon storms, and the region's poor natural drainage all demand a turf system built to handle them. This guide explains what goes into that system, why each layer matters, and what to require in writing before work begins.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the material spread across the turf surface after installation. It serves multiple purposes: it props the grass fibres upright so they feel and look natural, protects the backing from ultraviolet light and heat, adds weight to keep the turf from shifting, and helps water drain through the system. The type of infill you choose depends on the use of the yard and the turf product itself.
Silica sand is the most common and least expensive infill. It is simply rounded sand that sits between the fibres. It does the job of holding the turf down and allowing drainage, but it offers no special properties beyond that. Coated sand consists of silica particles coated with a polymer or mineral layer. The coating makes the sand gentler underfoot, can add colour to match the turf, and sometimes includes antimicrobial properties. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs moisture and odours, making it popular for pet turf and dog runs. It does not eliminate odour on its own, but it reduces the concentration and extends the time between cleanings. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, sold under brand names such as Envirofill, combine coating technology with additives designed to reduce bacterial growth or lower the surface temperature of the turf in direct sun. These products cost more than basic silica but can be worthwhile in high-use areas or in yards where heat is a concern. Crumb rubber (recycled tire material) is standard for sports fields and playgrounds where impact absorption is the priority, but it is not typically used in residential yards because it retains heat and odour more than other options.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is specified by weight in pounds per square foot, and this figure is critical. A typical residential turf might call for 1.5 to 2.5 pounds per square foot, depending on the turf product, the pile height and the intended use. Pet areas and play surfaces often require more. The infill holds the fibres upright, protects the backing from UV damage, adds ballast to prevent the turf from moving, and creates the drainage pathways that let water flow through to the base below. Too little infill is a common shortcut taken by cheap installations. Without enough weight, the turf will flatten over time, the backing will degrade faster, and drainage will fail because water will run across the top instead of through the system.
Do not accept an installation without a written infill specification. Ask the installer to state the infill type and the exact pounds per square foot required for your project. This figure should be calculated based on the turf product and the square footage of your yard. If an installer cannot or will not provide this number in writing, that is a sign that the work is not being planned properly. When you receive your free estimate, the specification should include this detail alongside the turf product, pile height and base depth.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The path to proper drainage starts before the turf goes down. Begin by removing the existing lawn, old turf or roots, and any organic material that will decompose and create voids beneath the surface. Excavate the area to the depth required by the base specification, typically three to four inches in Denver. Once excavated, the ground should be graded so that water flows away from the house, the patio, the pool and any structure. This grading is essential in Denver because the native soil does not drain naturally. After grading, lay a weed barrier (usually a non-woven geotextile) over the soil to prevent weeds from growing up through the turf and to separate the soil from the base rock above it.
Next, install a free-draining base of decomposed granite or crushed base rock, spread in lifts (layers) and compacted firmly with a plate compactor after each lift. This base layer is what actually moves water away from the turf and into the ground below. For pet areas, play surfaces or patios, an optional draining underlay or pad can be laid on top of the compacted base before the turf. This pad absorbs impact, provides additional drainage capacity and helps with odour control in pet areas. Finally, the turf is laid over this entire system. On hard surfaces such as concrete, balconies or decks, never glue turf flat to the slab. Instead, use a draining underlay or pad and ensure that the perimeter has edge drainage so water does not pool at the edges. The turf must be able to breathe and drain from all sides.
Base Prep on Denver Caliche: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Denver sits on the high plains at 5,280 feet, and the soil beneath most yards is hard, dense caliche mixed with clay. This soil drains poorly and will not support a turf system that simply sits on top of it. Proper base preparation is non-negotiable. Excavation must remove the existing lawn and roots, and the ground must be dug down to accommodate the base rock layer. The excavated area should be graded with a slope that directs water away from the house, pool and any patio or structure. This slope need not be dramatic, but it must be deliberate. Water that pools under artificial grass creates odour, encourages bacterial growth and can eventually cause the turf to shift or the backing to degrade.
The base layer itself is typically three to four inches of decomposed granite or crushed base rock, compacted in lifts with a plate compactor. Compaction is the step that most shortcuts. An uncompacted base will settle over time, creating dips and low spots where water pools. These puddles become odour sources in pet areas and can damage the turf backing. A properly compacted base is firm enough that you cannot easily push your foot into it. If your yard has a genuine water problem, such as a high water table, poor grading from a neighbour's property or a history of standing water, drainage must be addressed before turf installation. In those cases, we will recommend solutions such as a French drain or improved grading, and if the problem cannot be solved, we will decline the job rather than install turf on a failing foundation.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass backing comes in two main types: perforated and fully permeable. Perforated backing has small holes punched through it, which allows water to drain through at a controlled rate. Fully permeable backing is woven or manufactured so that water passes through the entire material. The drainage rate is stated in gallons per hour per square foot (GPH/SF). A typical residential turf might drain at 4 to 8 GPH/SF, while a pet area or play surface might be specified at 8 to 12 GPH/SF or higher. The faster the drainage rate, the less likely water will sit on the surface and the better the turf will perform in Denver's afternoon storms and hail.
However, fast-draining turf backing does no good if the base beneath it does not drain. This is the most common failure point. Water runs down through the turf, hits a compacted base rock layer, and if that base is not sloped or if it is not compacted properly, the water has nowhere to go. It pools, the turf smells, and the backing breaks down. For hard surfaces such as patios, balconies or pool surrounds, an underlay or pad designed for drainage should be installed between the turf and the concrete or deck. These products are perforated or open-cell foam that allows water to flow through and away from the edges. Ask your installer to specify the drainage rate of both the turf backing and any underlay, and to explain how water will exit the system at the perimeter.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The finishing details separate a professional installation from one that will fail. Seams, where two pieces of turf meet, must be joined with seam tape and a flexible adhesive designed for artificial grass. The two pieces should be laid so that the grain (the direction the fibres lean) runs the same way across the seam. If the grain is misaligned, light will reflect differently on each side and the seam will be visible. Nails or staples hold the turf to the base at the perimeter and along seams, and they must be spaced closely enough (typically every 6 to 12 inches) to prevent the turf from lifting or buckling. Edges must be finished cleanly with bender board, metal edging or a similar material secured firmly to the base. Turf should be cut tight to pavers, cool decks and other hard surfaces so that water does not pool at the edge and the turf does not separate from the surrounding material.
After the turf is laid and all seams and edges are finished, the installer should power broom the entire surface. Power brooming stands the fibres upright, spreads the infill evenly and helps the turf look full and natural. It also ensures that infill is distributed to areas where it may have been displaced during installation. A visible seam, a lifted edge, or a dip along a seam line tells you that the installation was rushed or that the base was not properly prepared. These problems will worsen over time. When you receive your estimate, ask the installer to walk you through the seam plan and the edge details for your specific yard.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any work begins, demand a written specification from your installer. This document is your protection and your proof that the work has been planned correctly. The spec should list the turf product by name and fibre type (polyethylene, polypropylene or nylon), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimetres, the backing type and drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and pounds per square foot, the base depth and base material (decomposed granite or crushed rock), the compaction method, whether a weed barrier will be installed, the seam joining method, the edging material and method, cleanup and haul-off, and the workmanship warranty period. This is the same information we provide on every estimate, and it is the standard you should expect from any turf installer.
A written spec does two things. First, it ensures that the installer has actually planned the job and is not making it up as they go. Second, it gives you a clear way to verify that the work was done as promised. When the job is finished, you can walk the yard with the spec in hand and confirm that the base depth is correct, that the turf product matches what was specified, and that the details are finished to standard. If you have questions about the spec or if an installer cannot provide one, contact us for a free estimate. We measure on site, specify every detail in writing, and can answer your questions about how the system will perform in Denver's climate. See our pricing page for ranges and more information on cost.